Is that the contrast, or is the one with the filter brighter? Turning the flash down doesn’t help much, or at least I don’t think it does, did that yesterday.
The Tiffen UV filter was about $6, so I won’t be sending it back. It’s better then nothing. You can increase the contrast in AfterShot Pro.
The Olympus M. 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R is a good lens, probably better outside, doesn’t always want to focus inside. The Tiffen UV filter is good enough for $6, if you want to spend $20+ for one, be my guest. I did once. But I’m to cheap to do so again. Is Hoya better?
Fuck, I should of bought the Amazon, for the same price. I have one somewhere, the reviews say it doesn’t affect the image quality. What lens is it on? Probably one of the manual ones, I don’t use.
Hoya isn’t cheap, so it’s probably better.
I forgot Amazon made em. Didn’t own any Tiffen ones though.
You might not need a UV filter. Just search Google for something related to UV filters. Apparently digital cameras already filter UV.
But it sounds like it should make the image darker, not brighter. So decrease the ISO? Or change the exposure? Changing the exposure on the RAW image, makes it mostly match the RAW image without the UV filter. Use Perfectly Clear, and it might match the JPG of the no UV filter. You need more contrast to match the JPG, even the no UV filter RAW doesn’t match the JPG.
Sucks you can’t assign the mode dial to something else.
Just set the shutter to 160 or more, and the flash to TTL, and remove the UV filter, it kills the contrast, at least on the dog.
If you aren’t lazy, you can edit all your pictures.
You can buy a OM-D E-M10 with a cracked screen for $125 or so, think it was $125. It’s cracked in the bottom corners.
Nobody seems to sell the mode dial for the OM-D E-M10, I’d have to request it from Olympus. If any part on the camera is busted, then it won’t fix it.
On another note, early this morning or yesterday, I found more corrupt pictures on my gallery. Also found a public_html folder in the public_html folder. No idea why. Looks like Piwigo is in it, just not all of it. Just deleted it. The non corrupt images could of existed in there.
If you point the flash up, you’ll need manual mode on the flash. To increase the power.
I thought that was only supposed to happen at slower shutter speeds?
If you look at the RAW in AfterShot Pro, you can’t see the blue dot, if you zoom in. I think AfterShot Pro gets rid of it. Just export it, and it won’t have it.
Got to use the lame pixel mapping function in the menu.
Lame because I have to do it. Apparently some cameras you have to send to the manufacture to get it done. If it worked, I’ll only buy Olympus cameras. If it didn’t work, I might eventually buy a Panasonic camera. Do they have a pixel mapping function?
Looks like it fixed it. Or I didn’t take enough pictures. Also was in a different room. Messed up on the focus on most of the pictures I took. Or messed up the bokeh.
That’s the best picture I took. There’s something brown on or above her nose. Was that the flash? Or has she been sticking her nose in poop?
I’ll be keeping my YI lens, it’s the only auto focus made for my camera lens that is f1.8. I have a cheap manual Chinese lens, but it probably isn’t as sharp. Manual focus is a pain. At least with Canon FD lenses it is.
Another dark picture on my phone, not on my monitor. Google wants to “fix” the lightning, all it does is ruin the picture, perfectly clear in AfterShot Pro would probably work better. But it doesn’t need anything on my monitor. Increasing the brightness on my phone could help too.
You might get blur though. And you have to use manual mode, if you want to set the shutter and aperture. If you don’t set the shutter, then you’ll get blur no matter what, at least in my living room. S mode does the aperture automatically, so no f1.8.
The lens isn’t tack sharp. But good enough for $100 or so, that’s how much I paid for a used one on eBay.
Haha Piwigo crashed MariaDB, sort of, had to refresh. Said it was gone.
Just don’t zoom into the pictures taken with it.
Now, do I want sharp pictures, or a good focal length? You could have both, if you buy the Olympus 45mm lens.
Hopefully my small camera bag doesn’t rip because of that lens. Can’t bring a flash with me, unless I want to take my big ass camera backpack. Might as well get a big ass camera if I do that.
FYI, you can use an aspect ratio of 16:9 on most cameras, you just change a setting. Some guy thinks 16:9 makes a camera better. Not really, you lose resolution doing so.
I have a sharp Panasonic 25mm, but I like 42.5mm better. Would that Olympus 45mm even fit in my small camera bag? If I didn’t want a reliable backup drive, I might have money left over, if I bought a cheaper external drive. Then I can shell out $250 for the Olympus 45mm.
Might have to do with a 3 or 4 TB drive. It’ll mostly be a backup for my movies drive.
WesternDick is cheaper then Seagate. Are they just as unreliable? Probably, based on the war of fanboys. I’ll probably buy the Seagate drive. The one I have has lasted a long time, it’s not full though.
No flash, also means, you have to set a custom white balance, you just need a white piece of paper. At least in my apartment you do. Think you do at my mom’s too.
That picture is way darker on my phone. Google Photos or AfterShot Pro can fix it. I backup to my Slice and Google, no restrictions on my Slice. Google is if something happens to my drives, and my Slice.
And the picture might be brighter in AfterShot Pro. Just noticed a red dot in that picture. Is that from the sensor?
Yup long exposures. Why isn’t the dot visible when zooming in? In AfterShot Pro. Something to do with the RAW image, zoom into the JPG and the dot stays. Does that mean, if I export it, the dot will go away?
The answer is yes, apparently it removes it automatically, or Neat Image removed it. Needed to remove some noise. But before removing noise in the preview, there was no dot I could see.
More satisfied with the cheap lens now, so I probably won’t buy the Olympus 45mm. You can increase sharpness by editing it, it just adds a bunch of dots or something, so it looks sharper.
I’ll have some pictures taken with that lens on my camera soon. It was cheap on eBay, and I saw some pictures taken with it, then realizing I had to have it, at least for a little over $100. It was used once, it says. Glad they didn’t like it.
That’s the same reason I bought a manual lens I have, but getting that in focus is a pain.
The YI has auto focus. It has no manual focus on an Olympus or Panasonic body. I probably can’t even update the firmware on the lens. Or does the firmware live on the camera? There’s separate firmware for their camera and that lens on their site.
Think I like the pictures with the flash in manual mode better. No idea why the camera can’t get the flash right. I only get it right, because I take more then one picture.
The lens was a Panasonic 25mm f1.7, at f3.5 and some at f4.5. I could use no flash, but I like the colors with a flash.
I don’t know how they made a better flash, that’s slightly smaller then the Nissin, and uses less power. Maybe you have to change the batteries more often. I use rechargable batteries, so it doesn’t matter to me.
If I sell the Nissin on eBay, I’ll be getting a nice picture of it. Need a way to prop it up though.
[caption id=“attachment_2729” align=“alignnone” width=“648”] OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA[/caption]
[caption id=“attachment_2730” align=“alignnone” width=“648”] OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA[/caption]
[caption id=“attachment_2731” align=“alignnone” width=“648”] OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA[/caption]
[caption id=“attachment_2732” align=“alignnone” width=“648”] OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA[/caption]
The two brighter ones are at ISO 800.
The background on the picture of Tonka looks odd, might be because I was standing in the kitchen, which has a different kind of light.
If you edit the pictures of Tonka, they look fine. Use Perfectly Clear in AfterShot Pro. But the noise removal blurs out the carpet as well. I don’t have a Neat Image license for Windows, don’t know if it would do any better, maybe.
Neat Image has better noise removal, it doesn’t blur out the carpet.
There’s the fixed image of Tonka. As long as you save the RAW file, you can most likely fix the image.